Remove disassembly loop and add front swivel ring.
Moderators: e292644, blueeyedwolf
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TNYankee
- I
- Posts: 2
- Joined: Sat Feb 23, 2019 9:11 am
- Country: USA
- Location: TN
It's simple:
1. Clear the weapon, remove the gas piston assembly (part 7) per manual instructions (http://wolfammo.com/pdf/WOLF-A1-operator-manual.pdf).
2. Use a roll pin punch to drive out the approximately 1/8" diameter locking collar (roll) pin (part 4H) that retains the locking collar (part 4G) on gas piston retainer (part 4D). It's located on the ejection port side of the gas block. Go slow, as the gas piston retainer assembly is under mild spring pressure.
3. Once the rin is removed, pull it all apart and swap out the collar (part 4E) with the front sight sling swivel ring.
4. Reassemble in reverse order; using a second roll pin punch as a slave pin helps.
Part numbers are taken from parts diagram in manual.
1. Clear the weapon, remove the gas piston assembly (part 7) per manual instructions (http://wolfammo.com/pdf/WOLF-A1-operator-manual.pdf).
2. Use a roll pin punch to drive out the approximately 1/8" diameter locking collar (roll) pin (part 4H) that retains the locking collar (part 4G) on gas piston retainer (part 4D). It's located on the ejection port side of the gas block. Go slow, as the gas piston retainer assembly is under mild spring pressure.
3. Once the rin is removed, pull it all apart and swap out the collar (part 4E) with the front sight sling swivel ring.
4. Reassemble in reverse order; using a second roll pin punch as a slave pin helps.
Part numbers are taken from parts diagram in manual.
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NavyChief
- I
- Posts: 4
- Joined: Tue Mar 31, 2020 1:48 pm
- Country: USA
- Location: Arizona
Honestly, it's really very simple.
Just use the directions posted above, and it'll work out . BUT I removed the Gas Piston Assembly prior to doing it.
Did mine, and I was done in about 5 minutes. Could have been done faster, if I didn't explore the inner workings of the Front Sight post area.
And also, if I didn't try to Re-Think such a SIMPLE procedure.
Now my MagPul Sling clamps on just so easy.
Just use the directions posted above, and it'll work out . BUT I removed the Gas Piston Assembly prior to doing it.
Did mine, and I was done in about 5 minutes. Could have been done faster, if I didn't explore the inner workings of the Front Sight post area.
And also, if I didn't try to Re-Think such a SIMPLE procedure.
Now my MagPul Sling clamps on just so easy.
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Iamscotticus
- L
- Posts: 87
- Joined: Thu Nov 16, 2017 9:00 pm
Just a note,
I was able to do the swap without removing the gas piston tube. I just rotated the cross bolt and the gas tube and it comes out the side, after removing the roll pin.
A note about the rollpin, drift it only enough to clear the center and release, don't drift it completely out..Its a lot easier to tap back in if it doesn't get loose.
Another note,
I too installed the T-91 sling loop swivel thinking it was a better solution than rhe Wolf supplied loop. Its an improvement, but still not very good. Thats a lot of wear and tear on a vital component. Also, it swings around allowing the sling to get twisted.
So, I thought by using the sight base rollpin hole I could insert an eyebolt and attach one of those cable swivels from Vickers. The hole is 3/16" and the equivalent screw thread size is #10, as in 10-24, 10-32.
But then I found I had all the parts to install a Magpul QD cup and loop on the front base. The screw I had from Magpul was 1" #10-24 so it cleared the base with .25 to spare. The cup screwed into it. The problem is the cup sits on the handgaurd and most QD swivels will be too thick to be inserted into the cup.
My solution was to use a Magpul QD Paraclip Adapter loop that got shaved down on the bottom so it will clear the handguard.
Im not totally convinced that the quill design of the loop is strong enough to take hard use and an eyebolt is probably better. But the Magpul psrts look really good and do exactly what I want.
I made a post on it with pictures.
I was able to do the swap without removing the gas piston tube. I just rotated the cross bolt and the gas tube and it comes out the side, after removing the roll pin.
A note about the rollpin, drift it only enough to clear the center and release, don't drift it completely out..Its a lot easier to tap back in if it doesn't get loose.
Another note,
I too installed the T-91 sling loop swivel thinking it was a better solution than rhe Wolf supplied loop. Its an improvement, but still not very good. Thats a lot of wear and tear on a vital component. Also, it swings around allowing the sling to get twisted.
So, I thought by using the sight base rollpin hole I could insert an eyebolt and attach one of those cable swivels from Vickers. The hole is 3/16" and the equivalent screw thread size is #10, as in 10-24, 10-32.
But then I found I had all the parts to install a Magpul QD cup and loop on the front base. The screw I had from Magpul was 1" #10-24 so it cleared the base with .25 to spare. The cup screwed into it. The problem is the cup sits on the handgaurd and most QD swivels will be too thick to be inserted into the cup.
My solution was to use a Magpul QD Paraclip Adapter loop that got shaved down on the bottom so it will clear the handguard.
Im not totally convinced that the quill design of the loop is strong enough to take hard use and an eyebolt is probably better. But the Magpul psrts look really good and do exactly what I want.
I made a post on it with pictures.