T91 Wolf A1 combat rifle piston system similar to the Belgian FN FAL automatic rifle use of short stroke piston drive design, Taiwaneses 205 Armory modularized the new design .
Combined the:
Gas Cylinder Head(10-1),
Piston Rod(10-2),
Piston Rod Spring(10-3),
Spring Bushing(10-4),
Buffer Spring(10-5),
Rod Guide(10-6),
together insert into the Piston Tube(10-7), collectively referred to as "drive mechanism", also known as "piston pipe group quick release system."
But the transmission mechanism does not have FN FAL automatic rifle intake control knob for gas adjustment. The design also target to simplify field maintenance for the soldiers, compared with the old T65 rifle series which contain too many small parts and difficult to dissamble.
To remove the drive mechanism, simply unlock the exposed gas cylinder head before pulled entire single module out.
After the gas cylinder head is part of the piston pipe, which contains a piston rod (catheter and connecting rod designed to be linked together as one piece, but can be freely move indivisualy).
There is a buffer spring on the outside of the piston rod, with a set of cushion spring seats after; and followed by a connecting rod. All the above parts are load into the long piston tube, And then combined with the gas cylinder head. Under normal use, the F marking of the locating pin of the transmission mechanism should be facing upwards after assembled.
T91 Wolf A1 Piston drive mechanism
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SpitNine
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- Location: PA
....After firing 200 rounds of Tula .223.
Compared to cleaning the BCG of an AR15, the BCG of the A1 is very easy and quick.
But, the piston system of the A1 takes a considerable length of time to clean completely.
I'm pretty picky about cleaning so your mileage may vary.
The inside and outside of the silver tube is covered in carbon.
Hard to see on the outside but it's there.
Getting the inside clean needs a lot of Hoppe's #9 and a .45 cal. bronze bore brush and takes the most time.
The plug, which is actually the cylinder for the piston, takes a bit of time to get the carbon buildup from the grooves and corners.
The piston on the op rod assembly is easily cleaned with Hoppe's and a bronze brush.
Running a Hoppe's soaked patch through the long spring gets the carbon inside.
The other spring and the spacer just need a wipe off.
The gas block on the barrel needs some attention as well both inside and outside. Hoppe's and Q-Tips.
So, in my humble opinion, and for what it's worth, it's a toss-up between how long it takes to clean a DI AR15 and the piston A1 upper.
That all said, My A1 upper has been completely trouble free right from the start and I would recommend one to anyone looking to buy one..... if you can find one.
Stay Safe
Thanks.
Compared to cleaning the BCG of an AR15, the BCG of the A1 is very easy and quick.
But, the piston system of the A1 takes a considerable length of time to clean completely.
I'm pretty picky about cleaning so your mileage may vary.
The inside and outside of the silver tube is covered in carbon.
Hard to see on the outside but it's there.
Getting the inside clean needs a lot of Hoppe's #9 and a .45 cal. bronze bore brush and takes the most time.
The plug, which is actually the cylinder for the piston, takes a bit of time to get the carbon buildup from the grooves and corners.
The piston on the op rod assembly is easily cleaned with Hoppe's and a bronze brush.
Running a Hoppe's soaked patch through the long spring gets the carbon inside.
The other spring and the spacer just need a wipe off.
The gas block on the barrel needs some attention as well both inside and outside. Hoppe's and Q-Tips.
So, in my humble opinion, and for what it's worth, it's a toss-up between how long it takes to clean a DI AR15 and the piston A1 upper.
That all said, My A1 upper has been completely trouble free right from the start and I would recommend one to anyone looking to buy one..... if you can find one.
Stay Safe
Thanks.